At Mekong, we drift down from Burma cloud country, trace the Lao border, wake up to Thai sunrises, pause by gilded Cambodian pagodas and wade through rice paddies in Vietnam. Each Asian fusion dish is an escapist’s wish. Each shareplate invites companions for the voyage.

Chef Tiw Rakarin, formerly of Mama’s Buoi (Surry Hills) and Alphabet St (Cronulla), launches Mekong as his newest venture. The culinary terrain crosses entrees, shared mains and desserts to map out recipes that generations have passed through the Indochine provinces.